The time has come to depart Kyuquot Sound and make the voyage to Nootka Island. It has been a bit of a mission this morning, preparing Jura once again for open water after more than a week of slowly becoming more and more used to calm seas. I have been stuffing blankets and towels into cupboards, trying to make sure the distance items can travel in the swell is limited. I have also been working out the best way to tie down the kayak on the foredeck. I thought I had it all figured out after about 30 minutes of experimentation, and then realized I had tied it off over the deck connection for the inner forestay, which I most certainly want today. We are going to be sailing in a brisk breeze with some serious swell, and the inner forestay, along with the running backstays, gives extra stabilization and strength to the mast to prevent it from pumping or bending as the boat crashes up and down through the swell. The force of the wind on the sails also puts extraordinary pressure on the rigging and mast. So I needed to untie the kayak, flip it around, and find a new arrangement. I found one that I think works, and now have the inner forestay secured in place. This is good, as I usually only remember that I want it once I notice the wind is picking up and we are in the swell, and it is always very exciting to try to put it in place with waves breaking over the bow while I am trying to hold on and get it secured at the same time. My biggest concern is waves breaking over the bow. Even though the kayak is upside down, water could slide underneath it and fill up the cockpit, which would be a tremendous amount of water, weight, and force that could rip it free or break the stanchions. Since we are going to be primarily downwind, I do not anticipate too many waves breaking over the bow. But for the future, I certainly want to get a cover for the cockpit so that it limits the possibility of that happening. I certainly do not think I would want to cross an ocean with the kayak up there. But it is much more manageable than the dinghy and takes up less space. I am just approaching Rugged Point now, and already the swell is about half a metre — a nice leisurely swell with a long period. The wind is forecast to get up to 20 to 25 knots, so it should be an exciting downwind sail all the way to Nuchatlitz Provincial Park, on the north end of Nootka Island.

Swell is about 2-3 metres from the west, so we’re broadside to it, which makes it a mission to move about the boat without falling. Wind is about 15 knots, cruising under just the Genoa making a modest 4-5 knots. I expect the wind to start picking up so I’ve left the main down, plus I don’t feel like dealing with wing on wing in this swell. I’m starving! Something about the motion makes me hungry, it might be time for an early lunch of leftover chicken curry.

I just hit a log, it felt pretty hard, evidently we sailed over it and it hit the keel several times before rolling away. I was below attempting to heat up some lunch. Hopefully the damage is minimal. Some of these swells are mountainous. It’s hard to keep on course without an autopilot.

It’s getting pretty spicy out there. Surging along on a beam reach, watching surf explode on reefs to port and starboard. It’s funny to see the odd sea otter drifting out here.

That was a thrilling entry to this beautiful sanctuary. I was rolling in with the surf and 25 knots of breeze on my starboard beam, threading the proverbial needle through two reefs, starting the engine for a hard turn to starboard into the inlet, into the wind, putting the engine into gear and steering while struggling to furl the Genoa as it flogged with terrifying ferocity. There was not much margin for error, but somehow I made it. Entering the inlet I passed a sea otter carrying a pup (or whatever you call a baby sea otter), it was pretty cute. I feel like I’ve just entered an atoll in the central pacific, surrounded by reefs. I can see the open water and surf breaking on the reefs from where I’m anchored, and there are countless little islands and beaches and grassy knolls to explore. This is a kayaking paradise. I’m ready for a nap and some nachos.